General Directions
MATERIALS AND TOOLS. Table saw; sabaer saw; band saw or jigsaw; drill with assorted bits; awl; nail set; hammer; screwdriver; C-clamps; vise; white wood glue; sandpaper; sanding block; carpenter's try square; ruler; pencils; paper; white deocrative tape; masking tape; woody putty; white latex semigloss paint; pigmented shellac primer; wood, other building materials and special tools (if required) are given in specifid directions; screws, nails and other hardware are shown in diagrams.
MARKING PATTER PIECES. Mark all pattern parts directly on the wood or other materials (such as plastic laminate) to be used, with pencil, ruler and carpenter's square. (Use a compass for any curved or rounded parts.) Be sure to mark all cuts perfectly square. On pieces cut from a continuous length, leave at least 1/8" allowance for saw cuts as you mark off the pieces.
CUTTING WOOD. Cut curves with a jigsaw (or by hand with a coping saw if you don't have a jigsaw). Clamp matching parts together and cut as one with jigsaw. (Coping saw can't cut multiple thicknesses of wood; if using one, cut each part separately.) For broad curves and straight cuts, use a saber saw or table saw.
DRILLING. Use an awl to mark and start holes for drilling. Clamp wood to a piece of srap to prevent splintering as the bit comes through the bottom. Clamp and drill matching parts at one time whenever possible. Drill lead or pilot holes and then countersink for flathead wood screws.
NAILING. Use finishing nails for thick wood, wire brads for thin (sizes shown on diagrams). Nails or brads should always be at least 1/8" shorter than the combined thickness of wood to be joined. For added strength, glue joints to be nailed with white glue. After nailing, drive nails slightly below surface with a nail set.
ASSEMBLY. Test-assemble. Check parts that should be square with try square. Assemble when parts fit correctly, gluing then screwing or nailing (or according to specific directions). When possible, clamp glued edges until dry, placing pieces of scrap between clamp and parts and wiping away excess glue immediately with a clean, damp cloth.
SANDING AND FILLING. For areas which will be painted (not those which are to be covered with plastic-laminate) and especially edges, sand smooth and fill all nail holes, screw tops, plywood voids and defects with wood putty. Sand puttied areas smooth when putty is dry.
PAINTING. After filling, as just described, apply 1 coat primer. Let dry, sand lightly and apply 2 coats of paint, sanding lightly after first coat is dry. For added durability, a third coat can be applied after a light sanding.
APPLYING PLASTIC-LAMINATE.
Materials Plastic-laminate sheet (amount given under specific directions; Formica brand was used here, in Ice White, color #953, finish #65); contact cement for plastic-laminate; router with bearing cutter or block plane or (least desirable) metal file; carbide blade or metal cutting blade for saber saw, table saw or jigsaw; roller.
To cut laminate, work with it face down and place a metal cutting, carbide blade in saber, table or jigsaw. Mark pattern on back, which is dark, with chalk, being sure to make each piece 1/8" larger all around than actual amount required to cover. For pieces which go up against an edge so that they can't be trimmed afterward, cut to fit on that side only; leave excess around rest. If you have a router, you can leave more than 1/8" around edges as router makes it easy to trim. Cut with laminate face down to avoid chipping of white on face. For pieces which must fit inside, where no trimming can be done, cut to fit.
Apply contact cement on both surfaces (one to be covered and back of laminate). Let dry until tacky, or until cement does not come off on your finger when you touch it. For a large piece, place a couple of dowels on surface, put laminate on dowels, then position at one corner, aligning laminate with surface. Roll in place or rub down with the heel of your hand at the corner. Remove dowels as you get to them, working from first corner over towards other end. For small pieces, just press in place and roll or rub for complete adhesion.
Trim excess from edges with router, block plane, or file. To cover black edges, brush on typewriter correction fluid. (Paint visible parts that aren't covered with laminate.)
Note Standard 1/16"-thick plastic laminate was used here. If you prefer, you can use the vertical grade, V-32, which is only 1/32" thick. Vertical grade can be cut to fit with scissors and is easier to use for that reason. It's also easier to press in place, except for the glossy type, which show any bumps on the surface being covered. The 1/16" is slightly more durable, but black edges do show; on vertical grade, edges are not apparent and dont't need covering. If you do use vertical grade, remember as you follow the diagrams that they are all keyed to use of the thicker grade and will have to be adjusted.
DECORATING UNITS All decorations (colored bands, strips and such) are red, yellow, blue and black self-adhesive tape, or cut from sheets of self-adhesive plastic. Pressure-sensitive graphic tape, which comes in several colors and very narrow widths and is available at art supply stores, can be used to avoid cutting down larger sheets into narrow strips. Small circles of color are pressure-sensitive dot labels, but they can be punched out of the self-adhesive plastic with a hole punch. Decorate the units following color photographs or make up your own designs.
TO POLISH ACRYLIC EDGES If any acrylic edges are exposed, or other cut surfaces can be seen in the finished until, cut parts should be polished. To do this, you'll need very fine sandpaper and a fine rubbing compound (from an auto supply store).
Sand acrylic with progressively finer sandpaper to remove saw marks from edges or other cut areas. Apply rubbing compound with a clean, dry cloth. Rub briskly until acrylic has the desired finish. For added shine, you can apply a small amount of furniture polish with a clean soft cloth after rubbing.
TO BUILD STATION with all units and platform in this order:
No. 5 Personnel Launcher and 6 Solar Power Unit can be made at any time; they do not affect other contructions. If you need to make slight adjustments it's easier on Living Quarters and Park than on pieces with moving parts.
Note If you are building units separately, or do not plan to make the platform, Nos. 1, 3, 4 and 6 are all shown as built to fit on the platform edges. For this reason, their inner and outer walls are two different sizes. The outer wall of each is 13/16" longer than inner wall as shown in diagrams. This is correct when you are building the entire station and platform. If you are not, the excess can be omitted. For example, No. 1 has separate pieces added as a lip to fit platform; omit these if you aren't building the platform. Be sure to make necessary adjustments for all units before you start to build them, working with the diagrams to change dimensions which accomodate the platform edges.
MATERIALS FOR SPACE STATION Materials required for units and platform are presented separately so you can choose the parts you want to build. However, if you plan to build the entire station, there is a greater economy of materials if you buy them all at once. The list does not include tiny amounts which only occur in single units (such as acetate for elevator in Living Quarters), so that it's wise to make comparative lists. Major components are: 2 1/4 sheets of 1/2" plywood (each sheet is 4'x8'); 3/4 sheet of 3/4" plywood; 1/4 sheet of 1/4" plywood; 1/4"x18"x18" of hardboard; 3 (each 4'x8') sheets of plastic-laminate (Formica brand was used; see above for color); 3' of 1x1 pine; 3' of 1x2 pine; 1' of 1x3 pine; 4' of 1x6 pine; 3' of 1x8 pine; 2' of 2x2 pine; scraps of 2x4 and 1/2x1 pine; 1/4"x18"x30" of mirrored acrylic; dowel in following sizes: 3' of 3/8" dia., 1' of 5/8" dia., 1/2' of 1 1/4" diam. and 1/2" diam., scraps of 1/8" diam. and 7/8" diam.; small amounts of other materials under specific directions.